The
surfs up in Kuta today. Usually it is pretty meek but today it was
interesting. The best waves were between the no swimming signs.
A dozen surfers were having a ball out there. The usual crowd was
hanging tight on the beach because it was not really a day for
beginners.
The wind was blowing and it would be challenging for weak swimmers. A
few tourists drown in Kuta from time to time because they
underestimate the conditions and don't realize how strongly the current can push them out away from shore.
It is recommended to swim parallel to the beach if you get caught in an
undertow. Where people run into trouble is when they panic and try to
swim straight back to the beach against the current and use up all their
strength trying to fight it.
The
theory is that there is only a narrow band where the current will push
you out to sea and a swimmer will leave it eventually if he keeps
plugging along.
These guys looked sharp and were having a good time.
Then a guy from the old crew takes a long board and heads out.
He casually picks his wave and effortlessly cruises between all the young guys.
His posture is relaxed with his arms at his side and he is leaning back. His balance is perfect. This guy is in his element.
He rides that wave right to the beach and steps off on dry ground. A few old surfing memories must be flashing through his mind.
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