Donsol
Dec 1 is a bit early for whaleshark spotting in Donsol but we decided to take a quick detour off the highway and give it a go. We were returning home to Leyte after a 2 month road trip and were treated to a crystal clear view of the Mayon volcano on the way.
Cagsawa
My friend and traveling partner had flown into Puerto Princessa in Palawan to join me on the last month of the trip.
That 1000 k from Manila to Ormoc, Leyte on the back of a beat up TMX motorcycle is not for the faint hearted. She really is a good sport but keeps questioning how she gets suckered into trips like this with me.
Fortunately for me, she is friends of the owners of the Santiago Lodging house in Donsol so it didn’t take too much convincing to stop for two nights. This lodging house is right at the jeepney corner in town and has great rooms for 400 pesos.
The Hernandez Guesthouse and restaurant is kitty corner from the Santiago and is a great value too. Their restaurant opened last year and the food is ok. It can be relaxing to watch life go by from the balcony with a cold beer in hand. Their rates are around 400 pesos a night too. Both of these places are great for backpackers – in terms of value and convenience.
The parade passed by so I took a few pics. I noticed that there are now two monkeys in the cage by the tree on the balcony. Monkeys can get frustrated when kept in cages and can become biters but the older monkey is the sweetest, gentle monkey I have ever seen.
The Maria Clara float.
Donsol Bay is shallow and murkey.
I took a ride past the tourist center to the beach. The caribao seemed to be having a good time but there wasn’t much else going on.
The Vitton Beach Resort is undergoing a major expansion. Their resort is right next to the tourist center and most day trippers stay there because it is so convenient. I see that they are developing the land across the street from the tour center as well.
Donsol
I was invited to share a boat with a 4 other snorkelers and decided to head out for the day. December 1 is really a bit too early in the season but I have seen as many as three whale sharks in November before.
note: I have been skunked in November before too!
Donsol Whale Shark Watching Tourist Center
4 boats landed up going that day and we all saw a few sharks. In our boat we had 7 swims but I suspect that we saw the same shark a few times. My guess is that we saw three different ones.
The park registration is 300 pesos and there is still no accountability of where the money goes. There are some photo copied forms that you fill out and hand over the money but there is no tracking number on any of the forms.
In the Sabang underground river in Palawan, the forms have a tracking number on them, but in Donsol, there is no way to know how much money is actually coming in. When I asked them about it they had no answer why that is. This is supposed to be a project in cooperation with the WWF but who knows – not my problem I guess.
I would like some of the money generated from the park fees in Donsol, to be invested in propeller guards for the tourist boats. As the season progresses many whale sharks get slash marks on their backs and logic would seem to indicate that at least some of these sharks are being hit by the tourist boats that chase them around the bay all day. We are told of course that it is the fishermen’ s boats doing the damage.
It would also seem to be a good idea to keep exact track of how many interactions per boat are happening, if for no other reason than collecting scientific data, but apparently that is not done either. The gathered information could be used to see general trends in the whale shark migration, but that would maybe also give an indication of how many park entrance fees had been collected and that of course must remain a speculative figure.
These are what the numbered permits from the El Nido Marine sanctuary in Palawan look like. No permits or receipts are available in Donsol. Maybe they can come up with a cool souvenir ticket with a whale shark on it – sure to be a hit.
Giddy’s Place – Donsol Lodging and Restaurant
Giddy’s Place is a new addition to the scene in Donsol. The food here is really good, they are open till midnight or later, and they have wi-fi.
Giddy’s Place is on a different level than almost everything else that is Donsol. The owner has chosen to remain open year around so the staff has an income even during the very slow season.
They have backpackers accommodation under construction out back and the pool is still under construction – also planned to be used for scuba lessons.
contact info: Giddy’s – +63 (2) 425 2627
New Donsol Accommodation – opened April 2009
Giddy’s Place
54 Clemente St.
Donsol, Philippines
rooms, spa, bar and restaurant, wi-fi open April 2009
0917 848 8881
website www.giddysplace.com
dp comment – I stopped in the restaurant in Dec of 2009 and had some great food and was able to tap into the wi-fi at 11pm.
I plan to stop in again In March of 2010 and will provide an update. If anyone stays there this season please provide feed back if you have the time – thanks in advance.
Mayon
Whale shark watching in Donsol Feb 2009
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGaDv2NFRIo
Whale Shark Donsol
Climbing Mount Apo
General Santos
Growing Orchids
Judy's Resto Bar
Logging with Motorcycles
Mount Mayon
Balabac Island
Biri Island
Calbiga Cave
Capul Island
Mangrove Swamp Palawan
Mikes's Resort
Mount Mayon
The news this morning showed a lava flow from an eruption on the volcano last night.
Wow – beautiful!
dp
quote from The National:
The authorities ordered the evacuation of the danger zone on Monday after Phivolcs increased its alert for Mayon to Level Three. A Level Four alert would mean an eruption could occur within days, and a Level Five alert would mean an eruption is in progress.
Phivolcs’ chief volcanologist, Renato Solidum, said a major eruption might mean a further 75,000 people would have to flee.
dp
I went back there the 16th and 17th of Dec 2009 – the mountain was light up like a Christmas tree!
reply on lonely planet:
It was kind of a weird trip for me – I was watching the news and impulsively drove up there from Ormoc.
Arrived at 2 am after 14 hrs on the road and just camped out all night watching the volcano. Very very cool. In the morning I went to Jolibees for breakfast and then checked into a 250 peso pension for the night.
I just couldn’t get comfortable in that pension because there was a slight rumbling and the stuff on the table was vibrating steadily. I remember the blast at Mt St Helens and didn’t like the boxed in feeling I got at Daraga.
It just wasn’t the right combination for a good rest so I drove the 46 kilometers to Donsol and checked in at the Santiago. After a good sleep I went back to Cagsawa – the farmers there are still working and the gift shops are still open – while the volcano smokes and burps lava.
In fact the girl selling postcards of prior eruptions already had printed out some pictures of the lava from the previous night. She has been selling postcards there 10 years already so i was inclined to buy one just because I admire her guts.
cheers
dp
post on Lonely Planet:
Hello banned,
I think diving the Ticao manta bowl will run you around 100 dollars US.
If they are there would be very cool, but I think it’s hit or miss. The mantas there are the really big ones so if you do see them it is super cool.
The usual procedure is to drop to the bottom of the bowl and just hold on while looking upwards so you don’t burn through your air.
I plan to be in Donsol tomorrow and will ask around about the latest activity.
cheers
dp
ps The cheapest accommodation in Donsol is either the Hernandez or the Santiago but Raymond of the Giddys Place is working on finishing the backpackers rooms at his place. The food there is excellent and they have wi-fi but it is more of a high end place. I think it is going to take off once they get the formula right.
dp
post on Lonely Planet
Hi banned,
I think both Hernandez and Santiago are 400 pesos per room now (single and double) . Sometimes they give discounts.
Amor Farms Resort is another good option on the beach (about a kilometer from the tourist center), the vibe is pleasant and it is a good value (it’s a bit more pricey but the location is outstanding).
…hands down the best food in Donsol is at Giddy’s (new this year) . They actually have a chef and the food is not overpriced. The owner also has a place in Borocay and knows what people want.
They have real spaghetti and pasta without sugar sauce – it’s great!
It is possible that the budget accommodation at Giddys is not ready for occupancy yet but I will check tomorrow and get back with you.
…not sure yet if I am going to do any snorkeling – I plan to catch the pumpboat to Masbate and should be back in a few weeks.
dp
Hi
Can anyone tell me if the whalesharks are still in Donsol Bay – with the recent activity of Mt. Mayon?
We are going there on the 1st of february mainly to watch the whalesharks, and we will be very dissapointed if the whalesharks have left the bay because they sense danger or something!
Hello Birgit,
The danger level at Mt.Mayon has been lowered dramatically and many residents are moving back from the evacuation centers back to their homes near the mountain.
I think that Feb 1 will be an ideal time to see the whale sharks. The whale sharks are most plentiful and the weather is most cooperative during the months of Feb and March.
Happy trip!
dp
i’m planning for Donsol in april but i have some questions.
can i make a detour from legaspi to mayon volcano, then head off to donsol? my flight will arrive legaspi around 2pm. how can i find the transport arrangement and cost?
Helli Ida,
There is a good chance that y0u will see the volcano as you fly into Legaspi.
If it is a clear day and you want to stop and see the Cagsawa Ruins near Daraga, it should not be a problem. Just make arrangements with your driver.
dp