Around Leyte

We took a drive around Leyte last weekend. The road is smooth, the weather was beautiful and we had a nice trip! The original plan was to take the 10pm ferry, Lite Shipping, to Cebu from Ormoc. The passage was cancelled so we changed our plan. Traveling in Leyte is a joy because the roads are in such good shape. Bay Bay is about halfway to Maasin where ferrys also leave to Cebu. We still had not yet decided what to do because I really wanted to go to Dumaguete on Negros to vist some friends. It was very hot so we bypassed the market and decided to eat later in Maasin. After getting a bite to eat at the Jolibee in Maasin we decided to head down to Padre Burgos on the southern tip of Leyte. This fuel pumping station looks out of place in Padre Burgos. It's just past the cock fighting arena on the way into town. At the pier in Padre Burgos we tried to get some information about the ferry to Limasawa Island. It usually leaves at 10 or 11am but the fiesta was on and the schedule might not be accurate. There are a number of dive shops in the area but we didn't want to stay at any of them because of the cost. Accommodation in the Philippines is not a good value in general and I try not to stay in tourist resorts. Suddenly this boat from Limasawa showed up because they were returning the disco equipment back to the mainland. They were heading back empty and we decided to hop on board. (60 pesos per person and 60 for the motorbike) We would be arriving after dark but decided to take a chance that there would be a room available somewhere. We spent 2 nights on Limasawa and returned to Padre Burgos on the 7am ferry. The clutch on my bike froze up so the gang at the dock proceeded to diagnose the problem. It took a bit of hammering and a few shots of WD40 got everything working again. I kind of have a love-hate affair with my Honda TMX155 because it is such a rattle box, but parts are available everywhere in the Philippines. We often travel with 4 on the bike too, but I installed a seat extension so it isn't this crowded. Filipinos have a great sense of balance and will pile 4 people on any bike. On a bike with an extension, (habble-habble) 7 people are common. For me 4 is enough, but if the road it flat and hard surfaced we have gone 5. The road heading north from Padre Burgos to Sogod follows the shoreline and is the most pleasant drive I have ever done. Stopping at little shops like this and getting something to eat and talking with the people is a subtle joy to me. These times are the high lights of these road trips. There are heaps of churches in the Philippines. Bicycle riding has really caught on in the Philippines. For me, it's just too hot but I admire these guys and their tenacity. From Sogod you can turn south towards Lilioan, where the ferry leaves to Surigao. That is Surigao city on the mainland of Mindanao - not Surigao Island, the surfers paradise. You can take a boat to Surigao Island from Surigao city however. The view from the bridge is great. A few years ago I stayed at Ofelia's Lodge. It was spartan but only cost 100 pesos per night at that time. There are a few eateries at the entrance to the ferry terminal. The terminal, an impressive sight, is vacant most of the time. Heading north to Tacloban. This bridge being built will make the trip from Tacloban to Liloan much easier and faster. The eventual plan is to have a vehicle ferry from the very tip of Leyte to Surigao, cutting 3 hours or so off the trip. Back in Tacloban. 2008    www.dutchpickle.com

 

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