Zamboanga is a vibrant city that reminds me a lot of Dumaguete with it's centuries of Spanish influence in the layout of the city, parks and old Fort Pilar.
There is a heavy police and military presence to keep the clash of cultures from boiling over but it is safe for the most part.
To say that living there is trouble free might be a bit of a stretch but people do seem to get along reasonably well.
There is a definite coolness between the Muslims and the western traveler but most of the people are good natured and just trying to get along.
I went down to the harbor where the pump boats buzz over to Basilan and took a bunch of pictures of the boats and the mosque.
Most of the guys were calling out "Hey Joe" and posing for pictures and inviting me over for a trip to Basilan.
How I would love to take them up on the offer but a reasonable amount of caution must be used in this area.
I am not paranoid about Muslims and have close friends that are staunch followers of Mohamed but as one young fellow cautioned, "Don't go to Tawi Tawi, Basilan, or Jolo with someone that you have not known for many years".
A well dressed fellow near the mosque did quiz me about what I was doing and I told him "I'm the dutchpickle, mate" which seemed to add to the confusion.
I do have a lot of fun with these guys and try not to take myself too seriously but most of the time they think that I am intel for the US army. That can work both ways for you.
It is a situation akin to that fellow Treadwell that camped out on grizzly bear trails on the Alaskan Peninsula until one day one of the bears was in a bad mood and ate him and his girlfriend.
If you were being blessed by God you might come through unscathed but even he has little patience for idiots that continuously press their luck.
Another run you should give a pass to is taking the bus from Zamboanga to Cotabato and then over to General Santos.
Going from Zamboanga to Dipolog in the north is reasonably safe and easy by bus but taking one across the southern coast to Gen San would display a lack of clear thinking.
On January 1 the copper mine between Cotabato and Gen San was attacked and several buildings went up in flames.
There might be a few hardened travelers that might do it but if you don't even speak the Muslim dialect it would be risky.
Rural Transit is the major carrier in the region with a steady stream of buses running north south. I think the ones to Cotabato are mostly the brightly painted smaller buses but I haven't made that run yet except by ship.
The boat trip is an easy overnighter and the security far exceeds that at any US airport because the odd ferry has gone up in flames and the government doesn't take any chances.
There will be at least 3 baggage checks and the dogs will go through everything as well. Dive knives are not allowed so keep that in mind because you are probably not going to be able to slip one through their security.
In Zamboanga the there is a beautiful central park- the nicest I've yet seen anywhere in the Philippines. There is minimal garbage lying about and the traffic is orderly. The security here all use automatic rifles and they are loaded.
These guys are not the token coppers you find in Manila guarding the hamburgers at Jolibees and opening the doors for customers.
There is a fast food place on almost every corner in town with Dunkin Donuts being the most popular.
The Zamboangans are very friendly to the foreigner, almost like they appreciate that you have come to visit their lovely town.
You will run into some indifference from some groups but you just have to let it run off like water off a ducks back remembering that these guys live here and you are just passing through.
On New Years' Day there was a shrine set up at the Fort Pilar for the lighting of candles to bring in the 2008.
There is a first class hotel the "Lantaka" right on the water. Some guys that have married a Filipina wife from the area will stay there a few days but it is out of my price range.
For a good mid range place I have stayed at the Hermosa but I found a great budget place down there called Atilanos. La Mirage is another good option for the budget traveler.