Balabac Island Palawan
Balabac is the southernmost island in the Palawan archipeligo. Few tourists venture here because there is almost no infrastructure to support visitors.
The Melville lighthouse standing watch on the lonely south coast is the last thing you see if you are headed to Borneo.
It takes around 4 days from Puerto Princesa to get there and back provided the weather is cooperating.
If not you might be stranded down there for a couple of weeks.
You can catch a boat to Balabac from Riotuba on the southern end of Palawan Island.
I opted to take along a motorbike. It costs 300 peso per person and an additional 300 for the bike.
The boat leaves around 2pm and arrives after dark in the town of Balabac on the north side of the island.
There are rooms available above the Sing and Swing karoke house for 200 peso per nite.
All rooms come with mosquito nets. (use them – this is one of the few areas in the Philippines that has a high malaria risk!)
South of Nara and Quezon on Palawan – it is considered to risky area for malaria and dengue.
My friends boatman was down with malaria at the time so one of the other guys filled in and brought me to the southern end.
Some people told me that it was possible to drive to Agutayan on the south side but others suggested that the trip would take 7 hours provided the road was not too deep with mud, in which case it would not be possible.
I went by boat.
I wanted to get down to the lightouse for no other reason than to look across the Straights of Balabac towards Borneo.
This area is filled with small time and big time smugglers and the occasional pirate vessel so it makes for an interesting adventure.
I was closely interrogated by the Philippine naval intelligence and was supposed to meet with Lieutenant Carenza in the morning but chose to head out of town instead.
It was a bizarre encounter because he and his men surrounded me as I emerged from the cr behind the Sing and Swing Karaoke lounge.
They were convinced that I was on a recon mission and wanted to coordinate efforts with my office.
It sounds a little weird but this area is the back door to the Philippines so navy intel, army intel, and the PNP keep information on everything going on in this part of the world.
I didn’t want to have my travels restricted nor did I want to start a file on myself that would follow me indefinitely in the Philippines.
Balabac island is mountainous, in contrast to most of the other islands in the area which are flat and loaded with coconut trees.
The jungle is thick and lush and has pilandok roaming about. These tiny deer are not easily seen because they are hunted diligently and stay out of sight. They are said to be delicious.
Quite a few of the residents speak Malay and enjoy conversing with you in that language. For the most part the locals are leery of strangers because a lot of shady operators do business here and people don’t want to get involved with things that don’t concern them. It is simply a matter of survival.
It takes 2 hours by fast boat to get to the south side of the island. There are a some dangerous reefs down there that have claimed a number of ships.
Some day this area might open up to dive operators but at this time it is not feasible.
The old Melville lighthouse has been retired and a solar powered model has taken up the guard.
Balabac IslandĀ – revisited Nov 2009
MG, Cheryl, and I did a quick trip to Balabac a few months ago. We took the pumpboat from Rio Tuba and stayed 2 nights on the island.
Balabac
Balabac
Bulad, or dried fish from Balabac has a well deserved reputation for being amongst the finest in Palawan. Cheryl landed up getting 6 bags of the stuff for her Mum in Nara.
Always take care to keep dried fish in a separate plastic bag because the smell will never get out of your clothes if you put it in your pack.
Balabac
Downtown
MG and Cheryl relaxing on the balcony above the Sing-n-Swing Karaoke. This is the only place to stay in town.
Sing-n-Swing Karaoke
Malaria and filiraisis are both found in Balabac. Most people use mosquito nets
Malaria does not concern locals as much as filariasis, which is uncurable and causes body parts to swell to grotesque proportions.
It is also called elephantitis in some places.
This is one of the main roads on Balabac.The mud on this island has no grit and is very slippery after rains. Most people get around by boat because it is so much easier.
Locals recommend using a bit of caution in the back country at this time – a band of MILF fighters fled to the interior of Balabac after a battle with the army on a nearby island.
Melville Lighthouse – Balabac Island
ello
we are students. oure plan is, to find a nice place on a beach, rent a bungalow and a boat(diving) and have a nice time….. we was travelling before in thailand, laos, malaysia, indonesia and india like backpackers. allways we was trying to learn samethink about the kultur and the people of the land!!! it is a dream since a long time- THE phillippins!!! )) ollaaaaa
same friends of us the are travell since 2 weeks on the phillippins. the are arround apo island, negros, siquijor…… the told us, very nice beaches, amazing landscape, friendly people but expensiv and a lots of tourist….. the are travell since a year, coming from india, so mabye the are a bit sensitive;)
we are looking for a place with very nice beach, amazing landscape, friendly people but with less tourists…..
first idea was to hit palawan. i hat a look on google earth. and found the a group of island in the south part of palawan, bugsuk island, balabac island. its incredible looking. perfect for flyfishing. big flat areas everywhere!!! but i hardly found any informations?!?!?
next place was: Cagayan island(Boliungan). its between Palawan and negros. close to the tubbataha reefs. it is hard to get there, how to get there?? whats going on over there?!?! many questions, i know.
thanks a lot!!!!!!!
greets and just the best from austria
max and kathi
ps: its freezing and a lot of snow here, time to go
Hi max and kathi,
It is difficult to find budget accommodation in the Philippines. I think that is the biggest drawback to traveling in this country.
There is no backpackers route with the exception perhaps the areas around Sagada and Batad in the mountains in Luzon.
Places that are hard to get to are often expensive to get to.
Balabac Island is out of the travelers loop and there are no beach bungalows for rent there. I don’t think it is a good choice for the first time in the Philippines. Malaria is also very common there.
Northern Palawan has a lot of possibilities and there are more travelers there. I do not think you will find super cheap accommodation anywhere on the island however. Transport is cheap in the Philippines but lodging is not.
Negros is another great island with some beautiful beaches, mountains and waterfalls.
dp
i’m from Malaysia I want to know pugai balabac?
tq
Hello fazley,
I am not sure what you are asking…but there are no public routes for travelers between Balabac and Sabah.
Fishermen and businessmen make the trip on a regular basis but there is no immigration port on Balabac.
Can you expand your question a bit?
dp
to tq: just like dp said, there is no commercial transportation from Malaysia to
Balabac or vice versa, but on the other hand there are merchants plying from Kudat or Labuan to Balabac or Rio Tuba and you can try it. Regarding immigration, the nearest is in Brooke’s Point but sometimes immigration officials are standing by in Rio Tuba, Bataraza.
. . . reneprince
Thanks for the info reneprince!
dp
Attention: PNP Balabac, Palawan
Sir, I would like to know if there’s development in the murder case of my brother Dodong, who was brutally murdered by three suspected residents of Brgy. Sibaring, Bugsuk last April 11. Please let me know if there was really an investigation made and a follow-up. As I understand sir, the killers are still on the loose. Please give me an update on this matter. I am asking concern citizens of the municipality of Balabac and the Brgys to please help us solve this case and coordinate to the nearest PNP personnels. Thank you so much . . . Rene (brother of the deceased).
reneprince,
I am sorry about the sad events that took place. I am sorry for your loss but am not in any position to follow up on this matter.
sincerely
dp
To: Reneprince.
Please send me an email and explain what exactly happened. What is the full name of your brother Dodong? What was he doing in Sebaring? I used to leave in Bugsuk Island and still know some people there. I know Bugsuk is a private island owned by the Cojuangcos.
Ed C.
Ed C.
Are you from Bugsuk Island? I need to know some details about the island. Is there a way you can email me at bulthaup36 @ yahoo.com?
Bulthaup
hi.. its really great to get some info around the island of bugsuk.. im so interested of palawan amazing beauty can u help me to find a place there but not expensive for a local tourist? beside bugsuk is there any bayan that can speak malay?
NINA
Hello Nina,
I have just returned from Balabac yesterday. There is not much tourism going on on that island as a general rule. It is very remote and undeveloped.
I was only able to get 28 kilometers by road and had to call it quits – there was a lot of rain and it was just past my skill level.
There is only one lodging house – the JD Lodge above the Sing and Swing Karaoke. 200 pesos for a single and 300 pesos for a double. Malaria is not rare so there are mosquito nets provided.
Electricity for the town goes off at 12 midnight. The main point of interest is the Melville Lighthouse – which is very interesting if you are into lighthouses.
Some people feel that travel into the backcountry on Balabac Island is not wise at this time.
cheers
dp
Hi.
I am planning to fly into malaysia and do some scuba diving/marine biology research in kudat (malaysia). very interested in the smaller islands and their biodiversity off at the end of palawan … as you have talked about. Is is a big problem getting from malaysia to thos islands by boat and avoiding all the immigration headache ? just going for a few days, maybe a week. Do not want to fly into palawan and then travel so far out to those islands. What is the best way to go straight from malaysia to that area – and then back, without to much of a headache ? is it possible to hire or pay a boat/private boat/private driver? any suggestions ? thank you.
Hello Jason,
I think it’s best to go by the book and do things legally. Things could get shakey in that area and you want good contacts and be on the right side of the law.
Just last month the MILF and the Army got into a shoot out and 7 rebels were killed before the rest of them escaped to the interior of Balabac.
That part of the world is fascinating.
Best to fly into Puerto Princessa and then take a few days getting down to Balabac and setting up your contacts there.
Keep in touch
dp
Hi. Thanks for your reply. Can i fly straight to puerto princesa and thru immig there or do i need to fly to manilla and then back to palawan island? such a headache! just trying to avoid to much headache and short on time also. can it be done…. from kudat-malaysia to balabac or is it completely impossible ? or to the other islands in the area ? without too many problems ? thanks
Hello James,
There is an immigration office in Puerto Princessa, I use it for visa extensions sometimes.
…I think that you will probably be arriving at Manila – it’s an easy hop to Puerto from there.
I have known yachtsmen that have arrived by sea and went through the immigration in Puerto.
I do think it would be a mistake to try to enter the country illegaly, smugglers do that trip every day but if you try it as a researcher and then get caught and blacklisted – your future in the Philippines has just ended.
This area can be shakey at times – it would be far better to have local allies with solid connections in case you have difficulties.
dp
i have been in balabac for 4 yrs.that was 1998…i haven’t return till now.i was planning to have a vecation there…can someone tell me anything that’s been goin on there that i need to know.any danger perhaps?
Hi michael,
Surely you have friends in Balabac that you made during your 4 years there.
They would be the best contacts for most recent news.
dp
hello..how long will it take me to reach rio tuba from puerto princessa airport?
Hello Kathreen,
It would depend on your mode of transport. I do not know any direct buses or shuttles from Puerto Princesa to Rio Tuba.
Give yourself a full day to get to Rio Tuba. If you plan to go to Balabac Island – give yourself another day and another to get to the Melville light house. Maybe 6 days in all.
dp
Hi dp, my wife and i( shes pinoy) were looking at buying land in Palawan, we have been there twice now and have been north but never south of P.P.C.. We are in contact with an R.E agent over there and he has beach front land for sale in Sofronio Espanola. I understand the inforstructure is poor there but this is fine we dont plan on living there for another 10 years or so but would like to build in the meantime. Is this a nice place.. we tried searching, but can not fine any info on the area.. We found info on Brookes point and this looks really nice. Any info on this area would be great.. thanks and regards
Dave
Dave wharfe,
Information on Sofronio Espanola you can contact the Municipal Tourism Office in Sofronio Espanola on this mobile number 0926-304-8395
MG
Thanks for the # MG will give them a call…. cheers
Thanks dp for the reply,
are you familiar with the mangsee island, palawan? by the way, is there any regular boat trip to agutayan from balabac proper?
Hi kathreen,
I don’t have any info on either of these two places. As far as I know the trip between Balabac and Rio Tuba is the only regularly scheduled run.
They make the trip every day provided the weather is ok.
dp
Hi dp,
The trip from Puerto Princesa to Rio Tuba, how long did it take you on a motorbike? How were the road conditions?
Edgar
Hello Edgar,
It is probably around an 8 hour trip. I usually stopped in Nara for the night to visit friends. The road is in good shape but was still being repaired in a few places last time i was there.
There is a huge nickle mine down here in the south, a Rio Tinto operation, which became a driving force to get things “modernized”. The vehicle traffic is actually heavier down there than in northern Palawan.
easy trip to Rio Tuba – it is a bit trickier to get to the lighthouse – you will have to arrange that once you are in Balabac – give yourself at least 4 days for the round trip from Puerto Princessa to the lighthouse and back to PP – 5 days would be better, or maybe even 6
cheers
dp
Hi. I am preparing a research proposal on dengue in Palawan, particularly involving tourists and other non-residents. I would appreciate it if the readers can put me in contact with these individuals. Advanced thanks
Dear Dutchpickle,
I really enjoyed reading your articles about balabac. I am a mountaineer and enjoy travelling. As you know, I will be in Palawan this Nov. 20, 2010 and opted to travel south down to Brooke’s Point. The moment I read your article I decided to go as south as Balabac.
How long will it take from Brooke’s Pt to Balabac? I have a very limited time in Palawan. Just a matter of 3 days. will I be able to be back on time at PPC for my flight? That will be on 22nd?
Hello Gary,
I suggest giving Balabac a pass because of the limited time frame that you have. You might be able to get to Balabac Island but it takes quite a bit of time to get down to the Melville lighthouse if that is your plan.
dp
I’m planning to visit phili again between January / March, i have been to palawan before but am interested to go to the south, time is not really a problem so i dont mind the long journey. I would like toknow if there is snorkeling possiblities on balabac and nearby islands, would i need to hire a boat and if so is it possible? or is there reef close to the shore? Also i like bird watching, are there good bird watching opportunities there?
Thanks
Rob
Hello Robert,
Balabac Island might not be the right place for what you are looking for – there is little infrastructure for the visitors and the beach is not really accessible by road.
There are some rare animals on Balabac like the pilandok (miniature deer) and others but I do not know about birdwatching possibilities. There is an island further up the coast of Palawan that is famous for cockatoos but I have never been there.
Getting around on Balabac is a bit of a hassle because there are only a few dirt trails. Boats are available for hire but might be expensive. In my limited experience – it seems like snorkeling reefs might be hard to find.
Balabac is also a fairly large island and it takes a bit of work to get around. Some locals might caution against wandering around in the interior. It is also very hard going in the rains because of the slippery mud.
Getting to the lighthouse on the south side of the island is a bit of a job and will likely require hiring a boat to get there. Balabac has possibilities but will take a bit of work and luck to see what you are looking for!
dp
I am into Lighthouses and I am off to Puerto Princesa this coming weekend. I was considering going to Melville. Thanks to your post I realized how far it is from Puerto Princesa and how dangerous it can be. *sigh*
Every time I travel in a place I try my best to visit the Lighthouse there. Looks like I will have to pass on this one :(
Hello Nori
The Melville lighthouse is indeed a beauty!
It is quite difficult to get to as you point out. I have only been there one time :) but it was pretty cool !
dp
after balabac island anong island an malpit na sakop ng malaysia?
to Ornel ate,
Mangsee Island is the last island of Balabac Municipality situated in eastern part. if you wish to go there pls drop by at Poblacion balabac and i will assist you going to that island. this island barangay of balabac are using two currency, the Philippine peso and Malaysia ringgit. Try visit Balabac and i will sure u will enjoy the adventure there.
For Michael Watt, Jr . . . I have a friend in Balabac whose name is also Michael Watt . . . could this be your relative or your father?
For Mr. Dutchpickle: We are selling our property in Bugsuk Island, Balabac. You can see some photos on my FB account . . . (Punta Sebaring). . . Thank you so much.
Balabac is an island populated by a 80% are Muslim and 20 Christian,,,this place is far fro the mainland of palawan,,,it is almost 9hours travel from city of Puerto princesa,,,4-5 hours from Puerto princesa city to Rio tuba by means of land transportation and 4-5 hours from Rio tuba to balabac by means sea transportation with pump boat passenger,,,,this place is nice for living because a lot resources can found in this place. the main problem in this area is ‘peace in order situation’ ….
Hi Dutchpickle,
There appears to be a large inland lake or sea inlet on Bugsuk island. Is this an area of interest / outstanding natural beauty ? Also, is this area safe i.e have there been any kidnappings of locals or foreigners ?
I went to Balabac in August (last month) ,there is still no other place to stay than the Sing and Swing which doesn’t seem to swing much by the way . To go from Balabac to Puerto it took us 10 hours ; the bangka was supposed to leave at 6 am ,it didn’t leave before 7.30 , arrival in Rio Tuba around 11 _12 , a tricycle to the shuttle stop then a shuttle direct to Puerto with a stop for lunch , everything normal ,the sea was perfectly smooth(prices: pumpboat 350 , tricycle 50 , shuttle 450 ) , the owner of the Sing and Swing travelled with us all the way to Puerto , so we didn’t waste any time as we were in a hurry because we wanted to arrive before 4 pm ,which was impossible ;. Never be in a hurry in the Philippines and keep cool that should be your motto !!! it was very difficult to find a tricycle in Balabac , people were very friendly but some made us feel uneasy ; for example at the Sing and Swing we met a Canadian man who advised us not to stay too long ,to be very careful with smugglers , he insisted a lot on his religion ( saying he was muslim ) and on his girl friends who were much younger than him ( which is not surprising in the Philippines ) . We supposed he was staying in one of the rooms as he was having a drink in the lobby upstairs but we never saw him again … While hanging out around the town , we met some people who wanted to be our guides saying the place would be safe with them ; we didn’t go anywhere with anyone but we walked a lot . the beach was nice and we could see some monkeys along the road and a few pheasants . There is not a real restaurant but I managed to convince a lady who had a small place where she sold chicken adobo to cook fresh fish for us ( there were a few stands selling fresh fish in the street and that was perfect ) when there is no restaurant you can eat better … the nights were more difficult no more fan after midnight and then you start sweating , 4.40 am : the call from the mosq , then the roosters started singing waking up all the dogs , end of the night , but still no light, you have to go to the toilets with a torch …… that is holiday !
Hello Nicky,
Good trip report – thank you.. There used to be two small restaurants across the road where the pier begins and several small eateries on the pier itself.
We loaded up on bulad or dried fish the last time we were there. Balabac is famous for its outstanding dried fish : )
You likely noticed the mosquito nets over the beds in all the rooms at the Sing and Swing. Malaria is not rare in Balabac Island so use a net.
Yes travel time is less now that the highway to Rio Tuba has been surfaced and is in quite good condition. Funny enough there is now a 9 hole golf course not far from Rio Tuba. Gives the mining execs something to do in their spare time he he
cheers
dp
Hi there!
We want to visit the lighthouse next summer. I really am worried about the Malaria and Dengue risk. Do you suggest that we take anti-malaria shots first?
Also, how much did it cost you to reach the lighthouse?
Thanks!
Hello Yam
I suggest using a mosquito net at nite when you sleep.
You will likely have to hire a private boat to get down to the lighthouse – very expensive in most cases. I went with friends and took their boat.
happy trip
dp
Hi i’m hani, i came from mangsee island which is part of balabac palawan!
Hi Hani ,
My name’s Ha Nguyen , from Vietnam .
I’d like to make a trip to Mangsee Balabac , I think I may go by May 2014 .
May you give me advice?
Thanks.
Ha Nguyen
Ha Nguyan, pardon my late rely . I have out and about the past few years and am now waiting out the coronavirus epidemic in the USA.
I do not know the Mangsee Balabac islands but they have been in the news at times for
for illegal entry and poaching of marine products. (at least what I see on the internet.)
sharks etc
dp
I have been to the Melville Light House on the south side of the island with my friend Barry and his boatman.
It was an excellent adventure but keep in mind that he is an old timer and knows the ropes. His main boatman was down with malaria so we had to find a back up. Barry,’s generosity and zest for life was a rare find. We met having a few beers at the Sing and Swing karaoke bar there in the main town bar. I had checked in for the night and Barry reminded me to be sure to use a mosquito net , which I did.
I have been to Balabac a few times and always bring a motorbike. The outback trails are indeed quite low end but I have done some pretty wild trips down there. A number of years ago there were some hold outs from MILF vs Army skirmishes holed up back there so it is not always the best place to go wandering about.
I always base out of the Sing and Swing and every trip was an adventure.
I was once advised that people that live there would much prefer to catch malaria than filariasis (for which there is no cure)
anyway just use caution and precautions like bug nets, spray, and possibly coils and try not to weird out about potential bad things
my friend Gary from Rio Tuba text me last year that a local kid got killed by a salt water croc while he was skin diving for fish , things can happen – try to reduce the risk