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Southern Leyte scuba diving |
Here is an incomplete report
on Padre Burgos. It was raining cats and dogs during my visit.
I took the
Cokaliong ferry from Cebu to Maasin a port in southern Leyte. Maasin
has a few places to stay and a number of restaraunts and shops and
internet cafes but I got a lift to Padre Burgos from a guy I met on the
ferry.
His brother, Richard, from California was staying there and graciously put
me up for a few days. real cool guy.
We stopped in at Gunters dive shop and found that he was fully booked
as it was near Christmas. It was a nice place, good food, nice view. Looks like
a well run shop.
You could easily stay in Maasin and comute to the dive
shop by jeepney or multicab more common in this area. About 25 peso each way.
If you continue on through Padre Burgos along Sogod bay you run into Peters dive
shop. Seems like a nice enough place but I only got in 2 dives on
account of the torrential rains at the time.
One of the dive guides
there saw a newly born whale shark a few weeks prior. That would have
been quite a sight.
We did see an almost clear color frogfish. Under the
pier in town there is a variety of critters that make for a good night
dive.
It seems that Gunter does more dives on Limasawa Island and Sogod bay while Peters does more dives in Sogod bay.
Across Sogod bay is a splendid reef called Napantao where a French guy is
building a large concrete structure that really looks out of place there.
I had to take a look and got rides from a series of jeepneys around the
bay and got dropped off at the side of the road a few kilometers short of the village of
San Fransisco. There was a trail and a kid showed me a
footpath that led to the backside of the lodge.
The dive shop is not accessible by
road so the staff was surprised to see me come walking down the side of
the hills through the trees. They gave me a glass of water but only one of the
older women spoke English well. We had a nice conversation.
The owner was
hoping to open sometime in the next year. He probably is aiming for an exclusive
clientel because the place is inaccessible by road. There didn't seem to
be any shortage of funds to build such an elaborate place in the middle
of nowhere I was thinking to myself. Having an injured foot I didn't
relish the idea of walking all the way back to the road uphill so
decided to organize a banca (small outrigger boat) to San Fransisco and catch the bus from
there.
One of the boatmen agreed to run me over there for 70
peso. Gliding over that reef was just spectacular.Such clear water and
fantastic soft corals. (These corals were exceptional - Napantao is a
protected sanctuary) Many of the fish were jumping out of the
water to get out of the
way as we glided past. I wish I had brought my snorkel and mask!
We got over to San
Fransisco and asked around about lodging as it was getting late in the
day. They came to the conclusion that it would be best for me to make
it up to Liloan to find a place to stay there for the night.
A bystander with
a motorbike agreed to run me up there for 100 peso. Found a pretty good room
for 120 peso and stayed the night there. Only problem there was a brown
out (power failure) so I didn't have water till morning. (Around 50 peso to the USD)
It was a nice place, helpful people, good location. I went to the harbor to find a restaurant that might
still be open to get something to eat. The first was a halal place
where the people were a bit hostile but there was another restaurant across the street that was
really good. By the time I got back to the hotel it was pitch black
outside but the hotel manager had a candle for me to light the way.
In
the morning I caught a jeepney to Sogod and from there back to Padre Burgos anticipating setting up a
dive on Napantau, but then the rains set in. I waited about three days
and decided to move on. Even if the rain stopped the vis would not be
very good.
Incidentally I met Ron down at the pier one night. A really
friendly Brit that used to be pals with Peter but they apparently had a
falling out. Ron was in the process of setting up a new dive shop near
Peters. It looks like it is going to be a good one and I am looking
forward to going back there sometime this year to check it out. Will
post new info at that time.
Southern Leyte Scuba Diving Shops
Gunter's
www.leyte-divers.com
Scuba Resort
www.sogodbayscubaresort.com
Peter's
www.whaleofadive.com
Philippines
www.dutchpickle.com
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