Eastern Samar

Eastern Samar In Eastern Samar you can get fresh yellowfin tuna for 120 pesos a kilo. Blue marlin goes for 130 pesos kilo. The roads are a little rough especially between Borongon and Taft but in general not as bad as those in Western Samar. Elizabeth and I took a grueling 17 hour motorbike ride from Tacloban in Leyte to Guiuan and down to Lelebon Island at the end of Calicoan Island past the Surf Camp. Then we headed up the coast and over the mountains and back to Catbalogan arriving at 11pm. It was kind of spooky going through the hills at that time and we did witness a guy get shot dead in the road but we were just too tired to get excited about it. Some people pushed us into their home to lie low until things settled down and we headed out just as some guys were headed up the mountain with clubs apparently getting ready to settle a score. An army truck full of soldiers came up the mountain as we were riding down but I have no idea how things turned out up there. Elizabeth just kept saying "This is not normal" all the way to Paranas which put us back on the main highway. She still has a fear of driving at night in the province. Gen. MacArthur is a town further up the coast. There was a lot of fierce fighting in northern Leyte and southern Samar during WW2. This is the road along the southern coast of Samar between Basey and Guiuan is flat smooth and a pleasure to drive on. We were in for a long day however as we headed up the coast. The road is pretty beat up especially between Borongan and Taft. It was a tough trip and Beth had to ride the last few hours side saddle. The Filipino people have an extraordinary sense of balance and she had no difficulty even as we drove the roads near Catbalogan, which are some of the worst in the province. I landed up putting almost 950 pesos in the tank that day. The southern coast of Samar is just beautiful. These unique motorbike set ups with roofs are common in southern Samar and northern Leyte because it rains so much. These rigs are in Basey on the south coast. Check the Basey to Sohoton story for more details. This is the road that leads down to Calicoan. Surfing resorts are starting to take the place over but it must have been a paradise at one time. It seems rather strange to have a large concrete wall blocking the view of the surf with only exclusive twits having access to the beach, but that's the way things are done in the Philippines. Dive shops do the same thing when they can get away with it. In the Philippines, legally, the beaches are for the people and a resort can not claim the 20 meters from the high tide line up the beach, but they do anyway. The whole east coast of Samar has possibilities though and can be done on a budget if you put a little research into it.   I'm not a surfer but it would blow the whole vibe for me to have to have your surfing so formalized and sanitized the way resorts seem to be heading. Just to grab a board and be free would be such a great feeling. This is the kind of places that I frequent when on the road. Often the food is way cheaper and better than at the resorts. It's nice to talk to the local people and hear about what's going on. We had a good meal with 2 cokes for a grand total of 70 pesos. Try not to pack too much into your day. It can take a lot longer than you planned if the roads are tore up. You can only go so fast around and over those potholes. Road slips in the mountains are particularly dangerous so keep your eyes open. Tips: Try not to travel too much at night. Dogs, people, holes in the road etc are harder to spot in advance and to plan for. Keep an eye on your tires because flats are not uncommon. There are a number of check points - Comlec, the military, the PNP and there is occasional unrest but generally the people are most helpful and friendly. Have your Philippine drivers license and a copy of your vehicle registration with you. Cover up for protection from the sun. Tourists often crave the sun but take a cue from every Filipino that is doing long distance traveling. They will be covered with cloth from head to toe. Never drive 17 hours in one day. It is just too much. Trust me on that! 2008   www.dutchpickle.com

 

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