Rote

Rote is the small island just west of Timor. It is famous for Nemberela, a surfers hangout. You can get there by boat from Larantuka in Flores and from Kupang in Timor. The fast ferry from Kupang takes around an hour and a half, while the regular ferry takes 4 to 5 hours. They leave from different harbors but both end up in Pantai Baru in the middle of the island and the middle of nowhere. You will want to catch a bemo there in the harbor to Ba`a or al the way to Nemberela if that is your final destination. To Ba`a it is around 15,000 rupiah and all the way to Nemberela is variable but at least 50,000 rupiah. I got there to Ba`a late and had to organize an ojek (motorcycle taxi) to Nemberela for 50,000 so the trip cost me 65,000 plus the 28,000 rupiah for the slow ferry. Still under 10 US. There is not a lot of transport on Rote and the schedule seems to revolve around when the ferry is in. If you rent a motorbike you could really have an interesting time here. It is what I imagine Bali was like 40 years ago. Rice paddies and a simple slow way of life. The people are very easy going and fun to talk to. There is accommodation in Ba`a that is good but you might prefer to get a place on the beach in Nemberela instead. The loseman there charge 65,000 and up per nite including 3 meals. I do not remember the name of the place I stayed but there is a big selection of losemans. There is even a high end surfer's resort that costs over 100 US a day. They have their own dingy that runs surfers out to the break which is a ways out. Seaweed is grown right off the beach and is collected and dried on shore. I think this is the stuff used by cosmetic firms. The fishermen here catch a long thin fish with a pointed nose and very sharp teeth. Their long noses are cut off before they are brought to the market so they don't snag on everything. When you are planning to leave, organize your transport with the loseman that you are staying. There are very few microlets making the trip to town so you don't want to miss your ride. You will leave around 6 am and hang around in Ba`a for a couple of hours. This gives you time to check out the market and get something to eat. There are some neat traditions in Rote. Some wear a funky hat that they are quite proud of and it does look cool. It is like a woven palm cowboy hat with a unicorn type horn on top. Rote - Indonesia 2006    www.dutchpickle.com